Austin and Ben at Youth World Championships

The youth world championships are now over and the results are in. Momentum's own Ben-Issac Tresco and Austin Hansel both climbed extremely well and placed in the top 10! That's an amazing accomplishment for both of these athletes.

Austin competed in Speed in Youth A. It was his first year in the category so it's even more impressive that he was able to do so well. Each youth category is split into 2 years worth of ages, so the first year can be quite difficult as you are competing with athletes older than you. Austin placed 9th overall. Austin showed great promise when we did our first speed day with him about a year and a half ago. In that time he took his talent and trained so hard that we aren't surprised with how much he was able to accomplish in such a short time. We have great expectations for this athlete! Congratulations Austin!

Male Youth A Speed Results.

Ben competed in Sport climbing as a first year Junior. Ben has been training with team Momentum for many years now. You can see his hard work and determination in his climbing. He placed second in US Nationals. He climbed excellent and placed 8th overall in Youth Worlds. That's a huge accomplishment and we are proud of having such an amazing climber on our team. Ben is one of our hardest workers and he often keeps the rest of the team motivated during difficult workouts. We are lucky to have him on the team. Congratulations Ben!

Male Junior Sport Results

Also a big congratulations to the parents who put so much time and effort into getting these athletes to Youth Worlds. Athletes need strong support groups beside them and we are always impressed with how hard the parents work to give their athletes these opportunities. Just getting to the competition is quite amazing because New Caledonia isn't exactly close by...

Team warmups and fun practices!

The junior team gets warmed up with stretching led by Kyle O'Meara and Palmer Larsen.

Stetching, or taking a nap? :)

A fun way to start practice. Leapfrog!

Making funny faces

Nationals Link

If you are looking for info about Nationals it's most likely to be found by clicking the link below

http://scsnationals.org/

Nationals!

A big congratulations to all of our team who is coming to Nationals in Atlanta this week! All of our team has worked very hard this year and the effort and determination you have showed is paying off! Currently we have Ben, Nathaniel, Dalton, Austin, Daniel, Zoe, Sami, Noah, and Goose heading to Stone Summit to compete. It's going to be a very exciting competition. Kyle O-Meara and I will be there coaching the full 4 days so if you need anything please let us know. Next post will have some pictures and videos from the Comp!

Divisionals Info

Hello and congratulations on your qualification for SCS divisionals in Division 2. Please read the following carefully so that you are fully prepared for your experience at the event and can take advantage of the opportunities Southern California has to offer.

First and foremost here is a link to the schedule: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Ot6apeOJyDjMKhqCrFKYYuiYqAO79MBb7aFNDeCDDuY/edit?usp=sharing

Please note that this schedule is subject to change. Please check back often.

In addition here's a link to the Divisionals FAQ: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1sBNYpOtjx9HWenJFuxTmPELryRGdwhh_3RxKPB5l028/edit?usp=sharing

This FAQ will be updated frequently. Please check back often.

There will be 200+ competitors at this event and it's important that everyone stays informed and organized. If you have any questions at all please feel free to email us directly. *Please note that Sender One Climbing is not in charge of registration, scoring or routesetting. Any questions regarding these issues will be forwarded to the appropriate representatives from USA Climbing. 

There will be coffee and food available at Sender One all day but numerous nearby options exist. Please inquire at check-in for recommendations. 

Sender One has arranged a special rate to Disneyland for all participants and their families. Please see the attached flyer for more information or visit www.senderoneclimbing.comBe sure to mention "Sender One Climbing" to receive your discount. In addition to Disneyland there are many local attractions available, namely the Beach. 

If you're interested in climbing outdoors please refer to the following areas on Mountain Project (www.mountainproject.com) or check out a guidebook in our Pro-Shop.

-Riverside Quarry. Sport climbing one hour from Sender One.

-Joshua Tree National Park. Some sport climbing but mostly traditional, top-rope, and bouldering. 2.5 hours from Sender One. Keep an eye on temperatures as "JTree" is in the heart of the desert.

-Town of Idyllwild, Tachquitz and Suicide rocks. Single and multi-pitch traditional climbing. 2 hours from Sender One.

-Black Mountain near Idyllwild. Granite bouldering scattered around a picturesque camping area. 2 hours from Sender One.

-The Tramway. Ride the tram out of Palm Springs high up on to Mt San Jancinto. Granite bouldering. 1.75 hours from Sender One to The Tramway, 20 minutes on the Tram.

Thank you and feel free to respond to this email with any questions you may have.

DON'T FORGET! ANYONE INSIDE THE BUILDING MUST SIGN A WAIVER. You can find our online waiver at www.senderoneclimbing.com

Weekly Challenge

This weeks challenge will be a little different. I'd like you to tell us how you mentally prepare for your competitions. What do you focus on when you are warming up? What are you thinking about when you get ready to climb a route? If you fall, what is it that you are thinking about afterwords?

This weekends Regional competition will be very exciting. Many of you have worked very hard physically to get prepared. Now let's think about the mental aspect of your competition. Post what goes through your head as you're competing, or just talk about it with your parents.

Things to think about

1) Having a Positive Attitude under difficult circumstances.
2) Competing with pride in yourself and your team and respecting other competitors.
3) Learning from each climb and each experience at the competition.

Remember, competing isn't just about hard moves it's also about learning and friendship. Think positive, be positive to your teammates, respect other competitors and know that you will learn something at this competition which will make you a better climber.

-matthew

Resoling your shoes

Many climbers spend lots of money on high performance rock climbing shoes. A really good pair of shoes can run you about $170. One question I get asked a lot on the team is "should I resole my shoes now?". That's a bit of a matter of perspective. But let me make a few points

1) At best new/resoled shoes will last about 3-4 months when climbing 3 times a week before needing a resole and losing performance.
2) If you don't want to spend another $170 then get them resoled before they are beyond repair
3) A resole is usually around $40. That's a savings of $140. Do that twice and you've just saved enough to buy at least another pair of shoes.
4) Resoled shoes don't need to be broken in again.

Here are some pictures of shoes in various states of newness vs total destruction.

NEW = Shoes with a brand new sole on them. See how there is a lot of rubber underneath the arrow? That is the sole and is the part of the shoe that slowly wears away as you climb.

OLD = These shoes are in dire need of a resole. Notice how the clear line of the sole is no longer there? The rubber is slowly wearing away. Any longer without a resole and these shoes are going to need a "toe-cap" which costs extra and often the shoes don't perform quite as well.

DESTROYED = Completely blown out shoes. The rubber on the toe has been worn away. Think about what climbing in shoes like these does to your technique. Guess where you will stand on these shoes. You will start standing on either side of the split which makes a big difference in your ability to climb well.

Now let's talk about performance of new shoes vs old shoes. As shoes wear out the rubber gets rubbed off the toe. Think about what this does while you are standing on a hold. These shots are taken from the side of the shoe. Imagine the lower red line is the where the shoes still have rubber. At first the angle you get is

brand new

1 month old

3 months old

over 4 months and wearing into the toe cap

What this means is that over time shoes can't edge as well. They may actually increase performance in smearing because of the new angle the toe forms, but most of us don't want great smearing shoes. We need shoes that edge and can "toe in" with.

So where can you get your shoes resoled? There are plenty of places in the US that resole shoes. If you google "rock climbing shoe resole" you should find a couple of places that you can send the shoes off to. Usually the postage and resole costs are about 40-50.

"What's that smell" How to deal with climbing shoe odors.

 

Just kicked off your shoes after working on your project and caught a whiff of that infamous climbing shoe smell, opened the trunk on the car and it's like walking into a locker room? Climbing shoes can get a bit stinky. Check out the following article for some hints to combat the problem.

Beating climbing shoe stink

Momentum SCS Comp at Sandy Saturday April 26th

This coming Saturday we will have another local SCS comp at Sandy Momentum. Given the gym will be reset for the comp we will be training this week at Millcreek M,T,W,R. It's going to be an exciting comp as many of the kids have the most experience on this terrain and should do very well. If you need information about the comp please click below. Please remember to register for the comp, bring something to eat and drink while competing.

http://www.momentumclimbing.com/events/competitions/2014scslocalcomp

This is the last of the local comps, next is Regionals on May 10th in Albuquerque, New Mexico.

Coach Matthew

Weekly Challenge

In Utah there is an incredibly famous sandstone crack climbing area. It's well known for it's finger, hand, and offwidth cracks. One climb in particular is quite famous called "Belly Full of Bad Berries". People come from all over the world to climb at this area, and many people come multiple times because it's so amazing. It's only about a 5 hour drive from Salt Lake City.

Question. What is the area, and which coach did the 2nd ascent of "Belly Full of Bad Berries" a 5.13 offwidth?

The new Millcreek gym and the Momentum Team

We now have an incredible new facility to train in. The Millcreek Momentum gym is now officially open! Last Friday we had a team preview night. The preview night allowed the team to have a sneak peak at the new training facility. I know I was sore afterwords and lots of climbers said so as well. All of this new steep and varied terrain is going to make Momentum an extremely competitive team. I know I saw tons of huge grins on the kids as they got on the ropes, and checked out the bouldering area. Both are huge and have tons of great climbing.

All of this makes the Momentum team a great choice for climbers looking for professional coaching in a world-class gym. With two gyms to climb at kids on the team will have more opportunities to grow their repertoire of movement. Each gym has its own style so as competitors climb they will be working on different styles of movement and will be well versed in everything they need to succeed.  Having a second gym also means over double the number of routes being reset. This allows kids to get in even more new climbs that will challenge them to learn how to move, work on weaknesses, and grow more quickly than they otherwise would have been able. We think this is one of the best ways to improve as climbers and we are very excited to see the team develop even more quickly.

Weekly Challenge

Which Utah climber made the 3rd ascent of Ambrosia v11? For fun, find video of "Ambrosia Buttermilks", watch him send it (hint: it's a super highball in the Buttermilks, California and his first name is Issac). This talented climber has spent time coaching some of our team kids. Jeff Pedersen says one of his best talents is impersonations of climbers. He is also well known for his ascents of highball boulder problems.

The Quarry Local SCS Competition Results

Team Momentum @ The Quarry

Libbie after redpointing on her 2nd go.

Matthew coaching climbers

Adeline working her project

The Quarry Local SCS Comp Saturday March 29th 2014

We have another SCS Local Comp coming up this Saturday at the Quarry.

Comp Details are as follows

Details		Discounts
Date: 29 Mar 2014 Check-In: 08:00AM Comp: 09:00AM Price: $45.00		Early Registration: $5 Early Registration Ends: 28 Mar 2014 USAC member: $5

Click here for Competition Registration and Information. 

Weekly Challenge Question

Folks, one part of being on the team is gaining knowledge outside of the gym. To that end we are reintroducing the weekly challenge. Think of it as homework, or not...  Post your replies to the challenge or bring a list to practice and tell a coach what you've learned.

Name 5 rope areas and 5 bouldering areas in Utah that have different rock types. (you can reuse areas that are both bouldering and ropes)

Examples for California
Ropes:
Yosemite - granite
Owens River Gorge - volcanic tuff
The Shredding - limestone

Bouldering:
Happies - volcanic tuff
Buttermilks - granite 
Columbia State Park - limestone

Volume Phase is underway

We are in the midst of our volume training and that means lots of climbing on easy terrain. Remember this is a perfect time to focus on footwork and technique. Relax, flow through your moves, and enjoy getting a lot of mileage in on relatively easy terrain. This is where you get your body ready for the hard training to come in power and power endurance phases. Work hard to be tired by the end of practice and get lots of climbing in.

Ben on Noah's custom made onsight problem.

Having a plan, one for hydration.

Thanks to Emily Tieu for her time spent educating the team members about hydration and nutrition.

Proper hydration just doesn't happen it takes a plan. Hydrate early and often.

Hydration is important for optimal climbing performance. Being dehydrated can lead to poor performance, fatigue, and muscle cramps.

What should you drink?

If training or competition last less than one hour, WATER is the best choice.

What about Sports Drinks?

Before, during, after long or intense training sessions.
Multi-day competitions.
When climbing in a hot environment.
When the last meal was more than 3 hours before climbing.

Hydration Plan

Before Climbing:

Start hydrating at least 4 hours before.
Drink 2 hours before and again 15 minutes before climbing.

During Climbing:

Drink every 15-20 minutes.

The healthy pee test.

Clear to very light color = good hydration, anything darker must hydrate.

Each and every practice have a bottle, and a plan to stay hydrated.