1) At best new/resoled shoes will last about 3-4 months when climbing 3 times a week before needing a resole and losing performance.
2) If you don't want to spend another $170 then get them resoled before they are beyond repair
3) A resole is usually around $40. That's a savings of $140. Do that twice and you've just saved enough to buy at least another pair of shoes.
4) Resoled shoes don't need to be broken in again.
Here are some pictures of shoes in various states of newness vs total destruction.
NEW = Shoes with a brand new sole on them. See how there is a lot of rubber underneath the arrow? That is the sole and is the part of the shoe that slowly wears away as you climb. |
Now let's talk about performance of new shoes vs old shoes. As shoes wear out the rubber gets rubbed off the toe. Think about what this does while you are standing on a hold. These shots are taken from the side of the shoe. Imagine the lower red line is the where the shoes still have rubber. At first the angle you get is
brand new |
1 month old |
3 months old |
over 4 months and wearing into the toe cap |
What this means is that over time shoes can't edge as well. They may actually increase performance in smearing because of the new angle the toe forms, but most of us don't want great smearing shoes. We need shoes that edge and can "toe in" with.
So where can you get your shoes resoled? There are plenty of places in the US that resole shoes. If you google "rock climbing shoe resole" you should find a couple of places that you can send the shoes off to. Usually the postage and resole costs are about 40-50.
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