Monday, July 18, 2011

1 Step closer to the Olympics

The IOC has added Sport Climbing to the short list for the 2020 Olympics.
Here is what the IFSC had to say about it...



Closer to our dreams
On July 4, 2011 the IOC Executive Board announced the sports shortlisted for the 2020 Olympic Games. The announcement was made ahead of the 123rd IOC session in Durban, South Africa.

The sports included are: baseball, karate, roller sports, softball, sports climbing, squash, wakeboard and wushu, one of which could be added to the 2020 summer sports program.

Baseball and softball were dropped after 2008 and are looking for reinstatement, while karate, roller sports and squash are not new to the shortlist. Only sport climbing, wushu and wakeboard are for the first time being considered for the Olympic programme.

IFSC President Marco Maria Scolaris welcomed the decision as a step forward in the development of the sport and in the pursuit of the vision that always guided the efforts of the IFSC, which has from the outset set forth a vision for sport climbing to be an Olympic sport.

The questionnaires, sent at the end of April 2011, were evaluated on the basis of the athletes’ profiles in gender, number and demographic spread, the participation and contribution from the Youth, the measures undertaken for Anti Doping, the Sustainability and Legacy of the sport and the Media development.

From 2007, when the IFSC was formed, sport climbing has seen tremendous growth, with an increase in the number of National Federations, an increase in the number of licensed clubs and most of all an increase in the number of registered climbers across all five continents.The IFSC also committed from the start to the strictest compliance with WADA anti-doping Code, and has devoted great efforts to guarantee gender equality at all levels.

The final decision on the inclusion of one of the shortlisted sports in the 2020 Olympiad will be taken during the 125th IOC Session in Buenos Aires in 2013. “Another hard route has been climbed, and a new starting point has been set” - commented President Scolaris, who announced the formation of a committee specially dedicated to the tasks connected to the Olympic Bid, and thus named IFSC Olympic Dream 2020 Bid Team.

"With the support of the whole IFSC EB - says Scolaris - I asked Li Zixhin (Representative for the Asian Council) and Keith Ferguson (Representative for the Pan American Council) to help me in this fantastic adventure. While we are all excited, I also want to thank the IOC Programme Commission and the IOC Executive Board for this amazing recognition to our athletes and to the sport."

The comments by IOC President Jacques Rogge on the inclusion of slopestyle events in skiing and snowboarding in 2014 may sound as a good omen for sport climbing."It is growing very fast - said Rogge. You have young, dedicated, spectacular athletes..." which may as well apply to our sport.


Go to http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/iscrizione_newsletter.php to signup for their free newsletter.

Sunday, July 10, 2011

Nationals 2011 Finals



The latest news from Atlanta now that Nationals is finished.

Team Momentum performed REALLY well. Sarah got 10th, Nathaniel 5th, and Ben 4th on Finals day today!

This puts Ben on the US Team to compete internationally.
He will be attending a 2 week training camp before heading off to Austria to compete at worlds.


Great job everybody!!!

Saturday, July 9, 2011

Day 3 Youth Nationals 2011 Semi Finals

It's day 3 already and there are 3 Team Momentum members moving on to the finals!

Ben finished the highest of the 3.  He's sitting in 2nd place in MYB. 

Nathaniel is in 4th in MYB and Sarah is tied for 5th in in FYB. 

The finals start at 9 a.m. tomorrow, Eastern time.  Go team!
We wish you success!

Friday, July 8, 2011

Day 2 Youth Nationals 2011

Hello,

After another long day at Stone Summit, Team Momentum has 7 of its 11 competitors moving on to the Semi-Finals!

  • Nathaniel and Katie both flashed MYB and FYB respectively.  They are both tied for first place in their categories going into the semis
  • Sarah (17th) and Ben (4th) fell going to the final hold on FYB and MYB respectively.  There were 13 flashes on the FYB Q2 route today and 2 competitors that were given usable surface on the final hold.
  • Ellise (7th), Tavray (12th) and Maisy (14th) were all within a few holds of finishing their routes and are advancing to the Semi-Finals
  • Cade, Madison, Rachel, and Sam all did great on some very challenging routes.  The competition was tough!
Semi-Finals start at 9:00 a.m. EDT tomorrow.

Michelle

Thursday, July 7, 2011

Nationals Day 1

Hi everyone,

Just wanted to give you a quick update in case you hadn't heard.  9 of the 11 kids flashed their Q1 routes today.  Sam and Cade were the 2 that didn't. 

Common consensus was that the FYB route was 11a so, way to easy for a National championship.  There were only 5 girls of the 36 in that category that didn't flash it.  The rope drag was so bad that it was weighing Sarah down quite a bit and she struggled trying to pull enough rope to clip the last draw on her route.  Most of the girls were struggling near the end to pull the rope.

Nathaniel and Ben both hiked the MYB route.  Nathaniel gave it a 12b rating which seems about right for a Q1 route at Nationals.

I didn't see any of the youth D kid routes but apparently Cade's foot popped off 4 holds from the top or he would have flashed too.  

 MYA was apparently the most difficult route of all the routes today.  Sam feels he didn't warm up enough and got flash pumped around clip 10 of the 14 bolt route.

Tav cruised through his route pretty easily while the 2 kids from the Front didn't finish it.  They had the long roof route today.

All in all, it was a good day.  Today's routes are only weighted at 5% while tomorrow's are 10% so we'll see what tomorrow brings.

Have a good night.

Michelle

Youth Nationals starts today!

Youth Nationals starts today in Atlanta Georgia at Stone Summit.  There are several of our team that are participating and we wish you all have a fun and successful time!
Check out the link below for Running Orders and more information.
http://www.scsnationals.org/

Also, congrats to all of Team Momentum who have participated in any of the comps!  Keep up the good work and keep climbing!  We're proud of you all for the progress you make.

We'll post news of the comp here and on the Team's Facebook page.