Results from ABS 13 Region 202 Finals

Congratulations to all the competitors that traveled to Albuquerque for the Regional competition this last Friday.    And a huge thanks to all the parents that made it possible for their kids to get there as well as to Rosane Coleman who organized the bus and hotel, and Karl Shuman that organized all the videographers.


Click here to see the results of the competition.  Invitations for Division 2 Finals are not shown.


Click here to view pictures of the competitors at the competition.  Thanks to Mark Alston for taking the time to shoot and then post these great images.

Running Order for Qualifying Round, Region 202 Finals

Please click the following link to view the running order for this Saturday's Qualifying Round:

http://library.constantcontact.com/download/get/file/1102099479535-98/ABS_13_Running_Order.pdf

Team Momentum Fundraiser

We need everybody's help on Saturday, December 3 from 10pm til 1am.  Team Momentum is hosting a $5 Late Night Climb to raise money for the competitive team to get to Albuquerque for Regional competition.

$5 gets you in the door and includes climbing shoes and harness (while supplies last).  Each paid entry includes 1 ticket into the raffle that will be going on all evening.  Raffle items will include chalk balls, chalk bags, Momentum T-shirts, gift certificates for Beehive Brews and a variety of other items.  Additional raffle tickets will be sold for  $5 each.

We will also be holding a silent auction on some larger ticket items that will include a 70M, New England climbing rope, a set of 5 Petzl quickdraws, a bouldering crashpad, etc.  Silent auction items will go to the highest bidder at midnight*

*minimum bids will be set on all silent auction items.

Quarry ABS Local Scores

ABS Local-Quarry Female Youth-A Sarah Legg 2945 Rachel Wedge 2850 Katrna Holbrook 2775 Theresa Nielson 2600 Maya Wheeler 1915 Vera Zanker 1535 Youth-C Camryn Mitchell 2570 Maisy Hayes 2565 Clara Harmon 2330 Aurora Allen 1720 Mckinley Knapp 1370 Sierra Knapp 1220 Youth-D Madison Roden 2415 Aspen White 1460 Sami Singleton 1440 McKenna Hogan 1040 Lily Maddox 365 Youth-B Fallon Rowe 2010 Francesca Steiner 1610 Male Youth-D Shinfei Quek 2050 Eli Brickey 1820 Victor Baudrand 1785 Xander Butler 1695 Oscar Baudrand 805 Dallin Duce 620 Eli Knapp 615 Zeyan Knapp 455 Keegan Hayes 205 Youth-B Nathaniel Coleman 4015 Dalton Bunker 2930 Austin Hansel 2885 Tavray Ma'e 2745 Youth-C Daniel Reavy 2330 Luke Weil 2125 Cade Tyrell 1890 Miles Alston 1860 Youth-A Eric Coley 2665 Marley Nelson 1670

Quarry ABS Comp

Please click here to register for the ABS local competition that will be held at The Quarry on November 19, 2011.  Check-in begins at 8:00 a.m.  Climbing begins at 9:00 a.m. and goes til noon with awards immediately following.  Make sure you select the "ABS" comp on the registration page.  Price is $40 for non-USAC members and $35 for USAC members.

Momentum's ABS Comp Scores

If you would like to view the scores from Momentum's ABS comp that was held on October 8, please click here

Coach's Tip of the Week

This week's coaching tip is about gas. That's right, gas. Not gas you get from eating chili or $4.00 a gallon gas, but energy-for-routes gas! Three ways to conserve gas on a route are:

Breathe-most people tighten up when they do routes and don't breathe enough. Relax and breathe

Shake out-let your arms hang down loosely, not at the same time of course, and shake them vigorously. Let the blood flow back into your arms and get the lactic acid out!

Rest on the route-look for ways to roll your weight over on your feet and legs; try to hang straight-armed letting your body go loose. Think of ways you can rest on the easier sections of the route and save gas for the harder sections.

Register Here for Momentum's ABS Local

Click here to register for Momentum's ABS Local Competition

Coach's Climbing Tip of the Week

You be the Coach!

A great way to gain a better understanding of climbing movement is to watch how others do it. For this next week, whether you are belaying or spotting, try to observe your climbing partner's technique and offer some advice.

In the news

Aurora and Xander from Team Momentum were on a KSL newscast this summer about rock climbing in Utah!  Derek, Michelle, and Chris were also featured in the news story!

Check it out here.
http://www.ksl.com/?nid=148&sid=16351530

American Bouldering Series Schedule

Here is the schedule for the Bouldering comps for our region (Region 202) for the 2011-2012 season. Please take a look and pick out the comps that you will attend.

Momentum ABS Local

Sat, October 8, 9am – 1pm

Momentum Indoor Climbing, Sandy, UT (map)

Check-in begins at 8:00 a.m. and climbing begins at 9:00 and goes til 1:00 p.m.

ClimbMax ABS Local
Sat, October 22, 10am-2pm
Tempe, AZ

Santa Fe Climbing Center - ABS Local

Sat, October 29, 12pm – 3pm

Santa Fe Cimbing Center, Santa Fe, New Mexico (map)

The Quarry - ABS Local

Sat, November 19, 9am – 1pm

The Quarry Climbing, Provo, UT (map)

AZ on the Rocks ABS Local

Sat, November 19, 9am – 12pm

AZ on the Rocks, Scottsdale, AZ (map)

ABS 13, Region 202 Finals

Sat, December 10, 2011, 7:00am – 3:30pm

Stone Age Climbing, Albuquerque, NM (map)

Region 202 Finals will be held at Stone Age Climbing, Albuquerque, NM. Time is to be determined but will start early. Anybody may enter but in order to be eligible to advance to the Division 2 Finals in January, 2012, competitors must be members of USAC and have competed in 2 sanctioned, local competitions. For more information, email Michelle Legg, michelle.legg (at) momentumclimbing.com.

USAC Division 2 Finals

Saturday, Jan 14, 2012

To be announced

This competition will be held at a venue in Boulder, Colorado or Tucson, AZ.
Entry in this competition is by invitation only for eligible competitors that finished in the top 6 of their category at their respective Region Finals. More details to come.

2011 Divisional comp

2011 Divisional comp, a set on Flickr.

Here are some shots from the Divisional comp held at Momentum in July. Go find your favorite move.

1 Step closer to the Olympics

The IOC has added Sport Climbing to the short list for the 2020 Olympics.
Here is what the IFSC had to say about it...

Closer to our dreams

On July 4, 2011 the IOC Executive Board announced the sports shortlisted for the 2020 Olympic Games. The announcement was made ahead of the 123rd IOC session in Durban, South Africa.

The sports included are: baseball, karate, roller sports, softball, sports climbing, squash, wakeboard and wushu, one of which could be added to the 2020 summer sports program.

Baseball and softball were dropped after 2008 and are looking for reinstatement, while karate, roller sports and squash are not new to the shortlist. Only sport climbing, wushu and wakeboard are for the first time being considered for the Olympic programme.

IFSC President Marco Maria Scolaris welcomed the decision as a step forward in the development of the sport and in the pursuit of the vision that always guided the efforts of the IFSC, which has from the outset set forth a vision for sport climbing to be an Olympic sport.

The questionnaires, sent at the end of April 2011, were evaluated on the basis of the athletes’ profiles in gender, number and demographic spread, the participation and contribution from the Youth, the measures undertaken for Anti Doping, the Sustainability and Legacy of the sport and the Media development.

From 2007, when the IFSC was formed, sport climbing has seen tremendous growth, with an increase in the number of National Federations, an increase in the number of licensed clubs and most of all an increase in the number of registered climbers across all five continents.The IFSC also committed from the start to the strictest compliance with WADA anti-doping Code, and has devoted great efforts to guarantee gender equality at all levels.

The final decision on the inclusion of one of the shortlisted sports in the 2020 Olympiad will be taken during the 125th IOC Session in Buenos Aires in 2013. “Another hard route has been climbed, and a new starting point has been set” - commented President Scolaris, who announced the formation of a committee specially dedicated to the tasks connected to the Olympic Bid, and thus named IFSC Olympic Dream 2020 Bid Team.

"With the support of the whole IFSC EB - says Scolaris - I asked Li Zixhin (Representative for the Asian Council) and Keith Ferguson (Representative for the Pan American Council) to help me in this fantastic adventure. While we are all excited, I also want to thank the IOC Programme Commission and the IOC Executive Board for this amazing recognition to our athletes and to the sport."

The comments by IOC President Jacques Rogge on the inclusion of slopestyle events in skiing and snowboarding in 2014 may sound as a good omen for sport climbing."It is growing very fast - said Rogge. You have young, dedicated, spectacular athletes..." which may as well apply to our sport.

Go to http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/iscrizione_newsletter.php to signup for their free newsletter.

Nationals 2011 Finals

The latest news from Atlanta now that Nationals is finished.

Team Momentum performed REALLY well. Sarah got 10th, Nathaniel 5th, and Ben 4th on Finals day today!

This puts Ben on the US Team to compete internationally.
He will be attending a 2 week training camp before heading off to Austria to compete at worlds.

Great job everybody!!!

Day 3 Youth Nationals 2011 Semi Finals

It's day 3 already and there are 3 Team Momentum members moving on to the finals!

Ben finished the highest of the 3.  He's sitting in 2nd place in MYB. 

Nathaniel is in 4th in MYB and Sarah is tied for 5th in in FYB. 

The finals start at 9 a.m. tomorrow, Eastern time.  Go team!
We wish you success!

Day 2 Youth Nationals 2011

Hello,

After another long day at Stone Summit, Team Momentum has 7 of its 11 competitors moving on to the Semi-Finals!

• Nathaniel and Katie both flashed MYB and FYB respectively.  They are both tied for first place in their categories going into the semis
• Sarah (17th) and Ben (4th) fell going to the final hold on FYB and MYB respectively.  There were 13 flashes on the FYB Q2 route today and 2 competitors that were given usable surface on the final hold.
• Ellise (7th), Tavray (12th) and Maisy (14th) were all within a few holds of finishing their routes and are advancing to the Semi-Finals
• Cade, Madison, Rachel, and Sam all did great on some very challenging routes.  The competition was tough!

Semi-Finals start at 9:00 a.m. EDT tomorrow.

Michelle

Nationals Day 1

Hi everyone,

Just wanted to give you a quick update in case you hadn't heard.  9 of the 11 kids flashed their Q1 routes today.  Sam and Cade were the 2 that didn't. 

Common consensus was that the FYB route was 11a so, way to easy for a National championship.  There were only 5 girls of the 36 in that category that didn't flash it.  The rope drag was so bad that it was weighing Sarah down quite a bit and she struggled trying to pull enough rope to clip the last draw on her route.  Most of the girls were struggling near the end to pull the rope.

Nathaniel and Ben both hiked the MYB route.  Nathaniel gave it a 12b rating which seems about right for a Q1 route at Nationals.

I didn't see any of the youth D kid routes but apparently Cade's foot popped off 4 holds from the top or he would have flashed too.  

 MYA was apparently the most difficult route of all the routes today.  Sam feels he didn't warm up enough and got flash pumped around clip 10 of the 14 bolt route.

Tav cruised through his route pretty easily while the 2 kids from the Front didn't finish it.  They had the long roof route today.

All in all, it was a good day.  Today's routes are only weighted at 5% while tomorrow's are 10% so we'll see what tomorrow brings.

Have a good night.

Michelle

Youth Nationals starts today!

Youth Nationals starts today in Atlanta Georgia at Stone Summit.  There are several of our team that are participating and we wish you all have a fun and successful time!
Check out the link below for Running Orders and more information.
http://www.scsnationals.org/

Also, congrats to all of Team Momentum who have participated in any of the comps!  Keep up the good work and keep climbing!  We're proud of you all for the progress you make.

We'll post news of the comp here and on the Team's Facebook page.

GriGri 2 Recall

In order to make sure all our climbers are safe, we want to make sure you all know about the recall from Petzl on the Grigri 2.

While there have not been any reports of injuries, there have been a few devices that have ended up being stuck with the handle all the way open. However, this takes a lot of pressure on the handle to make it 'break' and do this.

This is not much of an issue if you keep your hand on the 'brake' side which is recommended for all belay devices, but still important to be sure your equipment is functioning properly.

Here is the link to Petzl's page about the recall.

http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/us/recall-replacement-grigri-2

It concerns Grigri 2 devices with the first five digits of the serial number between 10326 and 11136.

Please spread the word to remind everyone to check your safety gear regularly, as well as your safety methods. (Always keep your brake hand on the rope!)

Running Order for D1 Finals Round-June 12

ISO opens at 9:00 a.m. and closes at 10:00 a.m. Climbing begins at 10:30 a.m.

Block #1 - MYD, FYD

1. Cade Tyrell
2. Filip Bras
3. A.J. Brundage
4. Gavin Robertson
5. Geoffrey Engel
6. Seth Rogers
7. Jonathan Ruana
8. Dylan Meyerhoffer
9. Mirko Caballero
10. Lukas Strauss-Wise
11. Ronya Strom
12. Maisy Hayes
13. Bella Derby
14. Alex Plotnikoff
15. Kamryn Cupal
16. Natalia Grossman
17. Madison Roden
18. Cameron Thomson
19. Laili Couper
20. Cameron Mason

Block #2 - FYC, MYC

1. Serena Smith
2. Amelia Hunt
3. Tayler Traughber
4. Maison Cline
5. Caroline Brekkan
6. Shani Keene
7. Talia Bowles
8. Haley Ulleseit
9. Ellise Shuman
10. Cierra Graham
11. Hanna Grossman
12. Melina Costanza
13. Kaden Roettger
14. Brett Walker
15. Ryan Patridge
16. Nate Linden
17. Austin Hansel
18. Jack Groh
19. Axel Dillman
20. Gavin Dixon
21. Rudolph Ruana
22. Charles Barron
23. Tavray Ma'e

Block #3 - MYB

1. Zak Surma
2. Cole Bradburn
3. Eli Janusch
4. Nathaniel Coleman
5. Garrett Conover
6. Tristan Helmich
7. Joseph Diaz
8. Connor Everton
9. Kale Perrone
10. Nicholas Bradley
11. Sean Bailey
12. BenIsaac Tresco

Block #4 - FJR, FYB, FYA

1. Kirsten Oldroyd
2. Taylor Barcom
3. Lila Neahring
4. Clara Dixon
5. Rachel Wedge
6. Sarah Legg
7. Taylor Kinch
8. Jacquelyn Wu
9. Katrin Gentry
10. Bridget Creel
11. Katelin Shuman
12. Sera Busse
13. Samantha Scharenberg
14. Hannah Donnelly
15. Alexa Nazarian
16. Kira Aszman
17. Emmaline Durand Lutzenhise
18. Allie Warren
19. Julia Bakun
20. Inge Perkins
21. Shannon Russell
22. Ana Stirniman
23. Hannah Le
24. Audrey Hsu

Block #5 - MJR, MYA

1. Elliott Springer
2. Andy Jensen
3. Shane Vasquez
4. Keenan Roettger
5. George Pollock
6. Larkin Flodin
7. John Longacre
8. Will Roderick
9. Zach Chalmers
10. Jesse Warren
11. Eric Sanchez
12. Alex Fritz
13. Dylan Drescher
14. Alexander King
15. Tucker Stone
16. Lloyd Lamoureux
17. Sam Wolff
18. Palmer Larsen
19. Rick Gentry
20. Sam Tresco
21. Sebastian Villaneuva
22. Arah Kagen
    
23. Joshua Levin
    

Male and Female Jr - Qualifying Scores: Sport

Male and Female A - Qualifying Scores: Sport

Male and Female B - Qualifying scores: Sport

Male and Female C - Qualifying Scores: Sport

Male and Female D - Qualifying scores: Sport

Qualifying Round-1st Heat Running Order

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AM Running Order
Start Time	FYD	MYC	FYB	FYA	MYA
9:00 AM	Mckinley Knapp	Forrest Meyer	Samantha Scharenberg	Kira Azman	Sam Steuart
9:06 AM	Natalia Grossman	Brett Walker	Sera Busse	Theresa Nielson	Ricjard Weltz
9:12 AM	Laili Couper	Weston Bradburn	Hannah Donnelly	Mckenzie Stock	Dylan Drescher
9:18 AM	Clara Harman	Kaden Roettger	Bridget Creel	Daisy Proksch	Aran Kagen
9:24 AM	Quinn Mason	Aiden Zappone	Sarah Legg	Shannon Russell	Austin Wrem
9:30 AM	Kamryn Cupal	Austin Hansel	Taylor Kinch	Valerie Hooper	Palmer Larsen
9:36 AM	Cameron Thomson	Anthony Willins	Fallon Rowe	Dakotah Apperson	Alexander King
9:42 AM	Madison Roden	Forrest Anton-Erik	Clara Dixon	Hannah Le	Joshua Levin
9:48 AM	Grace Vogel Palmer	Rudolph Ruana	Rachel Wedge	Audrey Hsu	Soren Bliss-Miller
9:54 AM	Sami Linden	Ryan Patridge	Jaquelyn Wu	Kathleen Stone	Julian Druzdzel
10:00 AM	Bella Derby	Charles Barron	Elly McClane	Inge Perkins	Sebastian Villaneuva
10:06 AM	Gwendolyn Roberts- Armstong	Cameron Read	Katelin Shuman	Julia Bakun	Sam Wolff
10:12 AM	Revan Florn	Gavn Dixon	Sequoia Meyer	Allie Warren	Andrew Dixon
10:18 AM	Maisy Hayes	Jack Groh	Katrin Gentry	Ana Stimiman	Michael Cohen
10:24 AM	Ronya Strom	Nate Linden	Adria Bowles	Alexa Nazarian	Rick Gentry
10:30 AM	Piper Thrams	Tavray Ma'e	Vera Zanker	Hanna Kamm	Lloyd Lamoureux
10:36 AM	Alex Plotnikoff	Justin Frank	Anna Farrell-Sherman	Emmaline Durand Lutzen	Jonas Abdo
10:42 AM	Cameron Mason	Riley Griner	Rebecca Vincent		Sam Tresco
10:48 AM		Mathew Wintersteen	Rachel Weltz		Jack Currie
10:54 AM		Axel Dillman			Tucker Stone

Qualifying Round-2nd Heat Running Order

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PM Running Order
Start Time	MYD	FYC	MYB	FJR	MJR
12:15 PM	Wyatt Price	Lienne Cupal	Austin Stranahan	Kirsten Oldroyd	Andy Jensen
12:21 PM	Devin Hammonds	Madison Cline	Jack Schwarze	Taylor Barcom	John Longacre
12:27 PM	Kieran Hadley	Serena Smith	Bryden Robertson	Lila Nearhring	Will Roderick
12:33 PM	Cade Tyrell	Hanna Grossman	BenIssac Tresco		Larkin Flodin
12:39 PM	Eli Brickey	Delaney Sigler	Connor Everton		Zach Chalmers
12:45 PM	Filip Bras	Dakota Angeli	Joseph Diaz		Jesse Warren
12:51 PM	Seth Rodgers	Ellise Shuman	Anthony Krichevskiy		Elliott Springer
12:57 PM	Jonathan Ruana	Dallas Hmmonds	Garrett Conover		George Pollock
1:03 PM	Tristan Dias	Siobhan Duffy	Mel Roderick		Keenan Roettger
1:09 PM	Aiden Sleavin	Melina Costanza	Dylan England		Alex Fritz
1:15 PM	Lukas Strauss-Wise	Carolline Brekkan	Nathaniel Coleman		Eric Sanchez
1:21 PM	A.J. Brundage	Tayler Traughber	Zak Surma		Shane Vasquez
1:27 PM	Dylan Meyerhoffer	Kayla Culmback	Kale Perrone
1:33 PM	Gavin Robertson	Cierra Graham	Alex Tresco
1:39 PM	Geoffrey Engel	Emily Forsberg	Tristan Helmich
1:45 PM	Xander Butler	Talia Bowles	Eli Janusch
1:51 PM	Stuart Rinehart	Mae Bradshaw	Sean Bailey
1:57 PM	Aiden Le	Amelia Hunt	Nicholas Bradley
2:03 PM	Mirko Caballero	Aurora Allen	Eric Low
2:09 PM		Shani Keene	Cole Bradburn
2:15 PM		Haley Ulleseit
2:21 PM		Olivia Durrant

SCS 2011 Division 1 Finals Schedule, June 10-12

FRIDAY June 10

6:00 – 10:00 pm Check in at Momentum Indoor Climbing

June 11

SATURDAY SPORT CLIMBING QUALIFIERS

ALL TIMES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE!!!!!!

TIME Morning Session - FYD, MYC, FYB, FYA, MYA

7:30 AM ISO opens for AM competitors and coaches ONLY, bouldering area open for warm-up

8:00 AM Judges Meeting

8:30 AM ISO closes.

8:30 AM Competitor Rules Meeting

8:30 AM Gym opens for spectators

8:45 AM Route preview

9:00 AM Sport climbing begins, 2 routes per competitor, universal clock of 5 min climbing time with 1 minute transition; 1 cycle rest

11:30 AM End of morning session for sport climbing

Afternoon Session - MYD, FYC, MYB, FYJ, MYJ

10:45 AM Check-in opens for PM competitors and coaches ONLY, bouldering area open for warm-up

11:15 AM Judges Meeting

11:45 AM ISO closes.

11:45 AM Competitor Rules Meeting

12:00 PM Route preview

12:15 PM Sport climbing begins, 2 routes per competitor, universal clock of 5 min climbing time with 1 minute transition; 1 cycle rest

2:45 PM End of afternoon session for sport climbing.

SATURDAY SPEED CLIMBING QUALIFIERS

Speed Climbing Qualifiers- AM categories: FYD, MYC, FYB, FYA, MYA

1:45 PM Judges Meeting

2:00 PM All AM categories check-in

2:30 PM Competitors Meeting

2:45 PM Begin AM categories Speed Qualifiers

4:00 PM Finish AM categories Speed Qualifiers

Speed Climbing Qualifiers- PM categories: MYD, FYC, MYB, FYJ, MYJ

3:30 PM All PM categories check-in

4:00 PM Competitors Meeting

4:15 PM Begin PM categories Speed Qualifiers

5:30 PM Finish PM categories Speed Qualifiers

As soon as climbing is over the gym must empty out!

June 12

SUNDAY SPORT CLIMBING FINALS

ALL TIMES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE!!!!!!

TIME Morning Session

9:00 AM Iso opens, all competitors

9:30 AM Judge's meeting

10:00 AM Iso closes, gym opens for spectators

10:00 AM Competitor Rules Meeting

10:15 AM Route preview begins

10:30 AM Sport climbing begins, 1 route per competitor, rolling clock with 6 minutes climbing time allowed

12:30 PM End of sport climbing finals

SUNDAY SPEED CLIMBING

12:00 PM Judges Meeting

12:15 PM All Speed categories check-in

12:45 PM Competitors Meeting

1:00 PM Begin Speed Finals

2:30 PM Finish Speed Finals

4:00 PM Awards Ceremony – Hilton Garden Inn, 277 West Sego Lily Drive, Sandy, UT

Awards Ceremony and ALL OTHER DETAILS are subject to change!!!!!